There are some recipes that don’t need a trend to be relevant. Matzo ball soup is one of them.
I didn’t grow up making matzo ball soup — that was never part of Nana Ruth’s Saturday morning rotation. But I married into a family that had its own kitchen traditions, and Jake’s sister Darlene, who made the best matzo ball soup I’d ever tasted. Light, fluffy matzo balls floating in a broth so golden it looked like bottled sunshine. She said the secret was the seltzer water and thirty minutes of patience with the lid on.
The first time I tried to make it on my own, I skipped the resting step. Just mixed the dough and started rolling. Every single matzo ball turned into a dense little hockey puck at the bottom of the pot. Darlene laughed when I called her. “Honey,” she said, “that dough needs to sit in the fridge. You can’t rush it any more than you can rush a good broth.” She was right, of course. (If you love a good from-scratch soup, my Chicken and Dumpling Soup follows the same philosophy — patience makes it.) Thirty minutes in the fridge changes everything — the fat firms up, the matzo meal hydrates, and suddenly you’ve got dough that holds together without being heavy.
With Passover coming up on April 1st this year, I wanted to share the version I’ve been making for our family. It’s not fancy. There’s no secret ingredient beyond good chicken, time, and a little bit of care. If you love a broth-forward meal, my Lasagna Soup and Brothy White Beans follow the same spirit. The broth simmers low and slow until it’s rich enough to make you close your eyes on the first sip. The matzo balls are the fluffy kind — Darlene’s kind — because that’s the hill I’m willing to die on.
Fluffy vs. Dense — the Great Matzo Ball Debate
Every family has an opinion on this, and they’re all strong. Fluffy matzo balls (sometimes called “floaters”) are light and pillowy — they practically dissolve on your tongue. Dense matzo balls (“sinkers”) are compact and chewy, more like a dumpling. Both are valid. Both have passionate defenders. But in our house, we’re a floater family, and here’s how you get there:
Use seltzer water. The bubbles create tiny air pockets that keep the matzo balls light. Flat water makes a heavier ball. This is Darlene’s number one secret and I pass it along with her blessing.
Don’t overwork the dough. Mix it gently — just until everything comes together. The more you handle it, the tougher it gets. Think of it like biscuit dough: less is more.
Chill before rolling. Thirty minutes minimum. An hour is better if you have the time. Cold dough is easier to shape and holds its structure in the simmering broth.
Keep the lid on while cooking. This is the hardest part because you’ll want to peek. Don’t. The steam inside the pot is what makes the matzo balls puff up. Every time you lift the lid, you lose steam and your matzo balls lose volume.
Tips from My Kitchen to Yours
Make the broth from scratch if you can. A whole chicken, some carrots, celery, onion, and fresh dill. Simmer it for at least two hours, then strain. The difference between homemade broth and store-bought is the difference between a hug and a handshake. If you’re short on time, low-sodium store-bought chicken broth will work — just add some extra dill and a squeeze of lemon at the end.
Salt the water you cook the matzo balls in. Just like pasta water, it should taste like the sea. The matzo balls absorb the flavor of whatever liquid they cook in, so bland water means bland matzo balls.
This soup gets better overnight. Make it a day ahead if you can. The broth deepens, the flavors marry, and the matzo balls absorb even more of that golden goodness. Reheat gently on the stove — don’t microwave it or the matzo balls get rubbery.
Even if you’ve never celebrated Passover, this is the kind of soup that belongs in every kitchen. It’s healing food. Comfort in a bowl. The kind of thing you make when someone is sick, or sad, or just needs to feel like somebody cares about them. Clara asks for it whenever she has a cold, and Mason calls it “the yellow soup.” I’ll take that as a compliment.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make matzo ball soup ahead of time? Yes — it’s actually better the next day. Store the broth and matzo balls together in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat gently on the stove. You can also freeze the broth for up to 3 months, but the matzo balls don’t freeze as well (they get a bit dense).
What if I can’t find matzo meal? Matzo meal is usually in the kosher section or international aisle of most grocery stores, especially around Passover. In a pinch, you can crush regular matzo crackers in a food processor to a fine, even crumb.
Can I use the broth from cooking the matzo balls? I don’t recommend it — the starchy water from the matzo balls makes the broth cloudy. Cook the matzo balls in a separate pot of salted water, then transfer them to the golden broth for serving.
What goes well alongside matzo ball soup? It’s a meal on its own, but I like serving it with challah or a simple green salad. For Passover, it pairs beautifully with my old-fashioned beef brisket — they were practically made for the same table.
Nana Ruth's Matzo Ball Soup
Ingredients
- 1 whole chicken about 4 pounds
- 3 carrots, peeled and sliced
- 3 stalks celery, sliced
- 1 large yellow onion, quartered
- 4 sprigs fresh dill plus more for serving
- 10 cups water
- salt and pepper to taste
- 1 cup matzo meal
- 4 large eggs, beaten
- 1/4 cup schmaltz or vegetable oil schmaltz preferred
- 1/4 cup seltzer water the secret to fluffy matzo balls
- 1 teaspoon salt for the matzo balls
Instructions
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Place the whole chicken, carrots, celery, onion, dill, and water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Skim off any foam that rises to the top.
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Simmer uncovered for 1 hour until the broth is rich and golden. Remove the chicken and shred the meat, discarding skin and bones. Strain the broth and return it to the pot.
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Make the matzo balls: In a bowl, mix matzo meal, beaten eggs, schmaltz, seltzer water, and 1 teaspoon salt. Stir until combined. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
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Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil. With wet hands, roll the matzo mixture into balls about 1.5 inches in diameter.
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Drop the matzo balls into the simmering water. Cover with a tight lid and do not lift it for 30 minutes. The steam is what makes them fluffy.
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Add the shredded chicken and sliced carrots back to the broth. Ladle the broth over the cooked matzo balls in bowls and garnish with fresh dill.
More Recipes You’ll Love
- Nana Ruth’s Lasagna Soup
- Nana Ruth’s Brothy White Beans
- Chicken and Dumpling Soup
- Nana Ruth’s Air Fryer Chicken Thighs
What I Use for This Recipe
A couple things from my kitchen that make this one easier.
Big enough for Sunday soup, light enough to lift. Every kitchen needs a pot this honest.
Stop guessing. Best twelve dollars I ever spent on my kitchen.
Potatoes, apples, carrots. The soft handle means even Mason can help with Sunday dinner prep.
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